Siquijor, the enchanting island of the witches

About 30 km southeast of Negros, south of Cebu, and southwest of Bohol, Siquijor is one of the tiniest provinces in the Central Visayan Archipelago, Philippines. Divided from the northern coast of Mindanao by the Bohol Sea – also called Mindanao Sea – it was a sub-province of Negros Oriental until November 1971 when President Ferdinand E. Marcos passed a Republic Act which made Siquijor a regular province and was backed by Siquijodnons (the natives of Siquijor island) in a ballot. Since then, Siquijor has been autonomous, and developed rapidly in tourism due to its natural beauty and mystic charm.

Discovered by the Spaniards Esteban Rodriguez and Juan Aguirre of the Legazpi Expedition in 1565. Siquijor was known to as Isla de Fuego or “Island of fire” because upon first glance, the Spanish saw that the whole island emanated fiery lights. It was learned that the eerie lights actually came from millions of fireflies that lit at night swarming the branches of the island’s many molave trees. The island’s native name was Katugasan derived from “tugas” (molave trees that covered the hills). Its present name is claimed to have been after King Kihod, Siquijor’s legendary ruler. Another version says it came from “quipjod“, a native term meaning “the tide was ebbing”. In time, the name “Siquijod” evolved until the “d” was changed to “r” for Spanish euphony.

Made up of sedimentary rock and fringed by coral reefs, Siquijor has flatlands of narrow floodplains and deltas around its coast. Most of the interior portion of the island is either hilly or mountainous, rising to a central peak is Mt. Bandilaan, at 557 meters above sea level. The island has three seaports strategically located at Larena, Lazi and Siquijor town. Though Siquijor Island is fairly remote, there are several routes to get there. The island can be reached only via ferry from the neighbouring islands of Cebu, Bohol, and Dumaguete in Negros. Boats and fast crafts ply the Cebu-Siquijor and Dumaguete-Siquijor routes and vice versa daily. While tourism is growing in importance, agriculture is still the predominant activity in the province despite the rugged terrain. Some 13.600 hectares are under agriculture cultivation and about 18.000 hectares are forest lands. The rest have been developed for mining, quarrying, and inland fishery. Population growth in the island has been low because of high out-migration and minimal in-migration. The original inhabitants came as farmers and fishermen from Cebu, Bohol, and the adjacent islands. Its population density of 215 persons per. sq. km is 30 percent lower than the regional figure of 307. Siquijor is comprised of six municipalities namely Siquijor (the island’s capital town), San Juan, Lazi, Maria, Enrique Villanueva and Larena. Each municipality has their own mystifying beauty and history to show and unfold to every visitor. With a total land area of 343.5 sq. kilometres boasting of a 102-kilometer-long coastline, legend has it that Siquijor rose from the sea amid thunder and lightning. Further supporting the premise and following details of the mentioned folktale, advance studies have yielded fossils of giant clam and other sea creatures under the land of Siquijor.

With rich marine life and beautiful beaches opening to turquoise waters, the island of Siquijor is perfect for a laid-back vacation. The province’s climate is generally dry from November to April and wet the rest of the year thus the best time to visit Siquijor is between December to March. Like the rest of the Philippines, Siquijor has a tropical climate with average temperature of 28°C. However, due to climate change, the rainy season can be hot sometimes and vice versa. Because of its protected location, Siquijor is sheltered from the full force of typhoons.

The magnificent beach is not the only thing the island is known for. Stories of witchcraft, sorcery, and black magic have long been associated with this unexplored island as it is a home to spiritual healers and shamans known to practice witchcraft and traditional healing rituals. These practices can be traced back to centuries ago when there was no access to modern health care facilities. But interestingly, those same practices are now attracting people from all over the world, especially ones with a keen interest in alternative medicine and some who are simply drawn in by the mysteriousness of the island. And of course, one cannot discount the appeal of the enchanted island; 400 years old balete tree located in Barangay of Campalanas, Lazi. What makes it mysterious is that a natural spring flows right underneath the tree.

Siquijor is often associated with ‘white magic’ performed typically by three types of healers (sometimes referred to as Mangkukulam) – faith healers, herbal healers, and the ones that use water-and-stone treatments to cure ailments, locally known as bolo-bolo. The herbal healers of Siquijor are known to brew traditional potions even for most modern-day health problems. These unique potions are prepared from the various ingredients collected from the native forests, mountains, and the sea. They are then mixed and brewed in large pots to make the various healing potions and ointments. The faith healers, on the contrary, use prayers to heal people. But the most interesting way of healing is offered by bolo-bolo healers who use a glass of water containing a black stone as their tool.

One of the most magical experiences in Siquijor is its Healing Festival, which is a gathering of healers and shamans who meet once a year to prepare their medicinal potions. Locals consider that in order for the potions to work, they must be prepared together. Thus, the healing festival is celebrated to formulate the potions and display the healing techniques used by the Mangkukulam. One of the most sold potions at the festival is what the locals refer to as the love potion, traditionally known as Gayuma. Thought to be a potent and powerful blend, the love potion is supposed to induce strong feelings of love or hatred, depending on the intentions behind its use. Several local vendor stalls also selling lucky charms, gemstones, and trinkets.

Apart from the mystifying belief the whole island shows to both locals and visitors, Siquijor is blessed with stunning white sand beaches that cares the clear blue sea and abundant marine biodiversity. Sanctuaries for diving and snorkelling are found throughout the island. Other activities such as caving, hiking, riding, and cliff diving are available as well.